Tuesday, 26 May 2009

Morris & Co and the Omega Workshops


Illustration: John Henry Dearle. Embroidered portiere, 1910.

By 1910, though beautiful, this embroidered hanging produced by John Henry Dearle for the company of Morris & Co, had become largely irrelevant as a design style. Much of this type of work was rapidly becoming obsolete and was often confined to the sentimental decor of the nursery.

By the end of the first decade of the twentieth century, much of the output of Morris & Co was either being by-passed by the general public with their short term fascination with the French and Belgian inspired Art Nouveau movement, or was struggling to come to terms with the more formidable challenge posed by the ideas and philosophies of Modernism in both the art and design worlds. A movement that was to come to dominate the differing decorative and artistic styles of the twentieth century.

William Morris, in many respects the head of the Arts & Crafts movement in Britain, had died in 1896, making John Henry Dearle effectively the head of Morris & Co. The company did survive Morris' death as well as Dearle's, and continued until 1940. However, it was never to regain the popularity that it had achieved under Morris. Admittedly, this had much to do with the company being so closely associated with their founder, so that even if the company had been willing to attempt to introduce a new generation of designer into its workshops, it would have been a hard struggle to counteract the dominating philosophy and character that the shadow of Morris placed over the company, right up to its demise.

The new generation of British artists and designers that could have breathed new life into Morris & Co, but ultimately challenged and then swept away the often cosy, but fast fading world of the nineteenth century, could probably be summed up by a reference to the Omega Workshops, under Roger Fry. The workshops were set up a mere three years after the embroidered panel was produced by Dearle. They had an entirely different outlook to Morris & Co. They were often considered to be haphazard and eclectic in style and merchandise, but had a charm and youthful enthusiasm and a passion for the untried and the untested, with Fry always having an eye on the new and the novel.

Fry and his group of young artists and designers were well aware that this was no longer the nineteenth century, and while their work had its roots in that century, they were not prepared to pay uncritical homage to it, or even to look wistfully back as Morris & Co seemed to be intent on doing. The new century had new ideas and new challenges, some of which were dead ends and some never materialised. However, the enthusiasm of looking forward was intoxicating, and although many of the buying public were still hesitant about the new century and its gifts, a significant minority were prepared to indulge the novelty and excitement of the new ideas in both art and design. As that minority got larger, those like the Omega Workshops that were supplying those new fresh approaches, flourished.

Perhaps Dearle's large embroidered piece produced in the grand nineteenth century tradition of the British Arts & Crafts style, can be seen as one last defiant stand against both the new century and its burgeoning new ideas, that Dearle and Morris & Co often felt at odds with. Perhaps more importantly it also highlights the problems the company had in connecting, or finding common ground, not only with the new generation of talented artists and designers, but more importantly, the younger generation of consumers who largely felt little or no affinity with Morris or his company.

Monday, 25 May 2009

Abstract Patterns of 1900


Illustration: Rene Beauclair. Decorative work, 1900.

It is important to remember that the concept of abstract pattern and design work is not a twentieth century invention, but has been used in one form or another since the creation of pattern in early cultures. Having said that, it has often had to compete with various forms of realism and realistic interpretation within the textile industry.


Illustration: Rene Beauclair. Decorative work, 1900.

The pattern work shown here is from a portfolio of design ideas by Rene Beauclair and was produced in 1900. It is interesting that amongst all of the wide-ranging uses found for the more obvious looking flora and fauna that was typical of the Art Nouveau movement, Beauclair should also see a use for a much more abstract, close up style of pattern, with no obvious or familiar reference points.


Illustration: Rene Beauclair. Decorative work, 1900.

The colours are limited to chocolate, pink and white, and in some cases just chocolate and white. These colour schemes were obviously meant as a guide only, and it would be up to the individual to interpret Beauclair's design work. However, the limited palette and the graphic quality of the designs point towards the bold, abstract pattern work of the next few decades, which was used very effectively in the textile and wallpaper industry during the 1920s and 1930s, under the Art Deco umbrella.


Illustration: Rene Beauclair. Decorative work, 1900.

These abstract designs were not as common in France, at the turn of the century, as they were perhaps in Germany and Austria. Here the Wiener Werkstatte and particularly the Deutsche Werkbund were to take the idea of abstract pattern work to the extremes of mechanical uniformity, where small-scale regular motifs, would make up all-over patterns that were meant to reflect the unresting and exact labour of the machine. The fact that some of the textile work was actually produced by hand, particularly with regard to the Wiener Werkstatte, was not seen as important; it was the idea behind the pattern that mattered. The inconsistency between pattern and printing could be lived with.


Illustration: Rene Beauclair. Decorative work, 1900.

Although Beauclair's pattern work does not really reflect the narrow parameters of the machine repeat, it does reflect a growing interest in the small scale repeat pattern of Germany and Austria, rather than the rambling large repeat so loved by William Morris and a large proportion of the British Arts & Crafts inspired design world.

The style of this set of abstract patterns was to become much more important to the textile and wallpaper design industries, and much more familiar to the general public, as the twentieth century progressed. Although there was an element of abstract pattern work to be seen at the turn of the twentieth century, it tended to be a small percentage of total output. However, the new century was to take the idea of the abstract design and popularise it to such an extent, through the many distinctive styles and eras that made up the century, that it now seems as natural a part of the pattern making business as any other.


Illustration: Rene Beauclair. Decorative work, 1900.

Further reading links:
Full-Color Art Nouveau Patterns and Designs CD-ROM and Book (Dover Electronic Clip Art)
Art Nouveau Designs (Design Source Books)
Art Nouveau
Art Nouveau: Utopia: Reconciling the Irreconcilable (Taschen's 25th Anniversary Special Editions Series)
422 Art Nouveau Designs and Motifs in Full Color (Dover Pictorial Archive Series)
Art Nouveau (Art and Ideas Series)
305 Authentic Art Nouveau Jewelry Designs
Treasury of Art Nouveau Design & Ornament (Dover Pictorial Archive Series)
Art Nouveau Flowers (Design Source Books)
300 Art Nouveau Designs and Motifs in Full Color (Dover Pictorial Archive Series)
Art Nouveau 1890-1914
Art Nouveau in Fin-de-Siecle France: Politics, Psychology, and Style (Studies on the History of Society and Culture)
The Art Nouveau Style
Art Nouveau Floral Patterns and Stencil Designs in Full Color (Dover Pictorial Archive Series)
Art Nouveau Illustrations CD-ROM and Book (Electronic Clip Art)
Art Nouveau: An Anthology of Design and Illustration from "The Studio" (Dover Pictorial Archive Series)
Treasury of Authentic Art Nouveau: Alphabets, Decorative Initials, Monograms, Frames and Ornaments (Dover Pictorial Archive Series)

Sunday, 10 May 2009

Latvian Arts & Crafts Exhibition of 1937


Illustration: Latvian Arts & Crafts Exhibition Catalogue, 1937.

1937 saw the first Latvian Arts & Crafts Exhibition. It was held for a month between February and March and was organised by the Chamber of Crafts and Trades. Like most exhibitions of this kind, there were various and sometimes not always immediately apparant reasons for the exhibition. One of the more obvious reasons was as a showcase to highlight home produced modern art and crafts. This inevitably gave the country an opportunityto emphasise to the world at large that they were aware of and part of the contemporary world of art and design. This was more acute as regards Latvia which had only been independent from the Russian Empire for a matter of twenty years. It gave the vulnerable small European state with its now hugely volatile Soviet neighbour, the opportunity to highlight its independence to the rest of Europe. However, there was also ample room to advertise and promote the long history of traditional crafts and the unique contribution of Latvia to art and design. But like many of these exhibitions, it was also hoped that some form of trade would result from the publicity.

The exhibition also highlighted the contemporary work of Latvian artists, craftsman and architects. There was a strong showing by makers of textiles, with an emphasis on weaving skills, and also included wood carving, metalwork, jewellery, and ceramics.

The actual printed catalogue that was produced for the exhibition, contained over two hundred pictures of home produced objects and had an in depth introduction to Latvian arts and crafts, both contemporary and traditional, and a number of supporting essays by various professionals.

This must have been a difficult time for Latvia politically and culturally. It was literally wedged in between the Soviet and Nazi spheres and would have had difficulty treading a path between the two opposing though mutually dogmatic systems. The Arts & Crafts Exhibition of 1937 gave Latvia a chance to underline their distinctive and unique culture which was independent of both the dominating Russian and German cultures. By emphasising not only the contemporary, but the long history of traditional crafts of the country, Latvia must have hoped to be recognised on the international stage as having a legitimate and memorable European identity, rather than, as the Soviet regime saw them, an aberration that would be re-incorporated into Russia at the earliest opportunity.

The hoped for heightened profile didn't work. After a mere twenty years of independence, Latvia was re-occupied by the Russians, only to be occupied by the Germans a year later and then re-occupied by the Russians again three years later. The Russians were to stay for the next forty five years.

Further reading links:
Latvian Heritage - Culture, History, Perspectives
Lonely Planet Estonia Latvia & Lithuania (Multi Country Guide)
Exile From Latvia: My WWII Childhood - From Survival to Opportunity
The Food and Cooking of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania: Traditions, Ingredients, Tastes and Techniques in 60 Classic Recipes
Latvia, 5th (Bradt Travel Guide)
A Joy Forever: Latvian Weaving: Traditional and Modified Uses
Latvian Mittens: Traditional Designs & Techniques
LATVIAN DREAMS, Knitting From Weaving Charts
Latvian Weaving Techniques
Folk Knitting in Estonia: A Garland of Symbolism, Tradition and Technique (Folk Knitting series)

Friday, 8 May 2009

James Shoolbred & Co Catalogues


Illustration: James Shoolbred & Co catalogue, 1874.

James Shoolbred started his company in Tottenham Court Road by purchasing number 155 in the 1820s. He was involved in supplying textiles to the burgeoning interior decoration market in London. He must have done well and quickly because he soon purchased numbers 154 and 156, either side of the original building. With his newly expanded premises, the shop was restructured and the stock was expanded. The new premises included a haberdashers and a carpet warehouse, as well as expanded accommodation for the stock of textiles, which included wool, silk and linen.

By the 1880s the company had expanded to such an extent that the business had to move again, this time into premises that functioned as an early department store. The new store was popular from the start. One aspect that proved popular with customers was the detailed displays of interior decorative schemes. Furniture, textiles, carpets and various accessories would be laid out as they would be seen in a real interior. This made it much easier for customers to perceive what their purchases would look like outside the constraints of the department store. It was also a good retail trick as it encouraged customers to buy whole ensembles, which they could reconstruct in their own home without having to hire an interior designer or sort out interior schemes themselves. This marketing trick is still used extensively today by such retail giants as Ikea.

By the 1870s, the company had started to design and manufacture their own furniture. This furniture, along with other interior accessories, were displayed in a series of catalogues that started to appear from about 1873 onwards. The catalogues were meant to expand the appeal of James Shoolbred & Co beyond their department store, and more importantly, beyond London.

Furniture design became an increasingly important aspect of the company and therefore played a large part in the catalogues that the company produced every year. All the major fashionable Revival movements were included, ranging from Gothic to Japanese, and included the numerous French styles.

Interestingly, because James Shoolbred & Co produced catalogues that were so detailed and wide ranging, many were used as literal pattern books in order to copy the latest London styles. This was a particular problem in far-flung British outposts like Australia and New Zealand where there was a brisk trade in James Shoolbred & Co furniture design, with details being worked out from the illustrations generously provided by the company. This furniture was then passed off as being part of a locally designed production.

The catalogues today are an intriguing view of interior tastes and styles of the later nineteenth century and are an invaluable tool, as are all catalogues, for any researcher, historian or anyone with an interest in the history of domestic interior design and decoration.

Unfortunately, the company did not survive the financial crisis of 1929 and closed its department doors for good in 1931.

Further reading links: 
An album of nineteenth-century interiors: Watercolors from two private collections
Domestic Space: Reading the Nineteenth-Century Interior
House Proud Nineteenth Century Watercolor Interiors from the Thaw Collection [HC,2008]
Interior Designs of the Nineteenth Century
Travelling by Sea in the Nineteenth Century Interior Design in Victorian Passeng
Nineteenth-Century Decoration: The Art of the Interior
History of Interior Design and Furniture: From Ancient Egypt to Nineteenth-Century Europe
English Furniture, Decoration, Woodwork, and Allied Arts; From the last half of the Seventeenth Century to the early part of the Nineteenth Century
Victorian Revival in Interior Design
Late Victorian Interiors and Interior Details
The Antiques Book of Victorian Interiors
Victorian and Edwardian Furniture and Interiors: From the Gothic Revival to Art Nouveau
Victorian House Style: An Architectural and Interior Design Sourcebook
Hints on Household Taste: The Classic Handbook of Victorian Interior Decoration
Victorian interior design